COLONIAL COAT (BOTH STYLES) LIN: 84110N - 81419N USER: TOG DESCRIPTION: 1. Material 1.1 Fabric: (Coat Blue with Red facing) Fabric for coat shall be cloth, 12oz, 80% wool and 20% nylon flannel. Color shall be Blue Homage, color cable #80087. The facing, collar and hearts of the turn back shall be Old Glory Red, color cable #80108. Col or turn backs shall be white, natural undyed, unbleached wool of the same material as the coat. (Coat Red with Blue facing) Fabric for coat shall be cloth, 12oz, 80% wool and 20% nylon flannel. Color shall be Old Glory Red, color cable #80108. The facin g, collar and hearts of the turn back shall be Blue Homage, color cable #80087. Color of turn backs shall be white, natural undyed, unbleached wool of the same material as the caot. Fabric shall be cold water sponger and moth proofed as specified in MIL-C -43665. Colorfastness shall meet requirements for we dry cleaning, perspiration and light equal to or better than the standards in MIL-C-823J. 1.2 Lining: The lining of the coat, including the sleeves, shall be of one material. The material shall be a cotton and polyester fabric as specified in MIL-C-43479c for type 1, class 4 materials. 1.3 Interlining: The interlining shall be constructed from muslin with a minimum weight of not less that 5 oz per square yard and does not reach below the area of the pockets and is made in two pieces. The interlining for the front of the coat is double thickness and the interlining for the rear of the coat is single thickness as specified in Figure 1(z) and (b). The collar and lapels will be reinforced with a single thickness of muslin, fusing material or other suitable reinforcing material. 1.4 Buttonholes and buttons: The buttonholes shall be made according to Fig. 1 and Fig. 2 and shall be finished as indicated: 1.4.1 Buttonholes: WIDTH Fit Button Size Front 1 1/8 inch 35 ligne Cuffs 1 1/8 inch 35 ligne Shoulder Loops 7/8 inch 25 ligne Vents 1 inch 35 ligne Pocket flaps 1 5/16 inch 35 ligne The buttonholes shall be cut first, eyelet end, square bar tack and in width and with gimp. The purl shall be on the outside of the material. There are two simulated button holes centered on the pocket flap as indicated in Figure 2 (d). 1.4.2 Buttons: Buttons shall be furnished by the Government. 1.5 Thread: All colored thread used for seaming, stitching, buttonholes and felling, shall match the fabric and be of a cotton covered polyester thread. The thread shall have colorfastness as specified in Paragraph 3.4.2 of Federal Specification (Fed, Sp ec.) V-T-285D. Breaking strength shall be as specified in Paragraph 3.7 Fed Spec V-T-285D. 1.6 Metal Fasteners: Metal fasteners shall meet specifications of Fed Spec V-V-106 for rust and coating. Fasteners shall be brass. 1.6.1 Placement of front of coat shall be one hook and eye close to top of collar. The remaining two hooks and eyes shall be place on a horizontal line adjacent to the second and third button/buttonhole. 1.6.2 Placement of Turn back: The location of the hook and eye shall be at the point of the hearts on each turn back as shown in Figure 2. 1.7 Outlier (seam Allowance): Back seams shall be not less than 1.0 inch in width and 2 inches when pressed open. All seams shall be well pressed. All other seams are to be made as follows: (Blue with Red Facing) The blue facing shall be joined to the main body (front) utilizing an SSa-1 seam type. The red facing shall be joined to the blue facing utilizing an SSa-2 seam type on the outside edge. (Red with Blue Facing) The res facing shall b e joined to the main body (front) utilizing an SSa-1 seam type. The blue facing shall be joined to the blue facing utilizing an SSa-2 seam type on the outside edge. The seam allowance on the sleeve shall be 3/8 inch in width and shall finish ¾ inch when pressed open. The sleeve shall be set utilizing a 3/8 inch seam allowance and shall not be pressed open. The collar shall be set to the neck with a 3/8 inch seam. The seam allowance shall be turned inward to the collar. Top collar shall be joined to the under collar along the outside edge and sides of collar utilizing an LSb-1 seam type. Stitching shall confor m to Federal Standard 751-a with Change Notice A, Amendment 1 and Change Notice 1. The shoulder loops, pocket flaps, cuffs, outer edge of the lapel facing and outer edge of the collar shall be ¼ inch seam. 2. Style of Uniform: Regimental coat, colonial, circa 1784 as specified in Figures 1 and 2. Facing will be loose and not stitched down, in order to be buttoned back as shown in Figures 1 and 2. Facing in front and collar shall be exactly 3 inches in wid th as shown in figure 1(e). The V shape at the rear of the collar shall be 3.5 inches, measure from crease line at center of collar to the point of the V . Corners of the turn backs shall be reinforced with cloth identical to cloth used in the coat an d place as specified in figure 2. 3. Labeling: Shall have a permanent label sewn in the coat, attached ½ inch below the collar seam and centered on the center seam of the coat lining. 3.1 Each label shall conform to the format as indicated below: Name of Manufacturer Contract number Size 3.2 Size shall be according to both chest and length. For example 42R, 42L, 42XL. Request a copy of the solicitation via email only @
[email protected].. Please put the solicitation number in the subject line: W91QF7-07-T-0060.